Use the feeding table on the package as a starting point and adjust by body condition. Reading labels, switching foods and managing treats.
The first thing to look for on the package is whether the product can be fed as a main diet. Some foods are made to be complete and balanced, so that food and water alone meet nutritional needs; others are treats or supplements. They can look alike, but feeding only the latter can unbalance nutrition. Next, check which life stage the food is made for, such as growth, adult or senior. Growing animals need different amounts and ratios of nutrients.
Ingredients are usually listed from most to least, but moisture content can shift the order, so the list alone says little about quality. Figures such as protein and fat in the guaranteed analysis also differ greatly between dry and wet food because of water, so do not compare them directly. Compare the same type of food, or convert to a dry-matter basis. Whether your animal eats well and has good stools and body shape matters more than whether a particular ingredient is in or out.
The feeding table on the package is a starting point that tells you how much to give per day by body weight. Calorie content differs between products even at the same weight, so do not carry over the amount from a different food. The table is based on an average animal; less active or spayed and neutered animals may need less, and active ones may need more. Once you set a daily amount, divide it across meals, and weigh it on a scale rather than eyeballing to cut errors considerably.
Body shape tells you more than the number on the scale. Looking down from above, a slight waist tucks in behind the ribs, and running your hand along the side you can feel the ribs under a thin layer of fat; this is generally considered ideal. Clearly visible ribs mean thin; ribs that are hard to feel even with pressure mean overweight. Vet clinics use body condition scoring based on these criteria, so asking for your pet's current score at a check-up gives you a reference point.
A sudden change of food often causes vomiting or diarrhea. Over a week or more, mix increasing amounts of the new food into the old. A common approach is about a quarter new food for the first few days, then half, then three quarters. If stools get loose along the way, go back to the previous ratio and hold it a few more days. Cats can be picky and may refuse a suddenly changed food and stop eating, and a cat going without food for long can be dangerous, so do not rush.
A commonly used guideline is to keep treats within 10% of total daily calories. On days you give treats, reduce the regular food accordingly so weight does not creep up. If you use many treats for training, you can set aside part of the daily food to use as rewards. Human food is often too seasoned, oily or salty, and some foods are dangerous even in small amounts, so do not share casually. A separate guide covers the dangerous foods.
Cats are carnivores that rely heavily on animal protein and must get certain nutrients, such as taurine, from their food. That is why dog food cannot replace cat food. Cats naturally drink little, so mixing in wet food or placing water bowls in several spots helps with hydration. In multi-cat homes, feeding them separately at mealtimes so they do not eat each other's food makes management easier.
If weight keeps rising or falling, if vomiting or diarrhea continues after a food change, or if appetite suddenly changes, do not blame the food alone; talk to a vet. Animals with medical conditions may need a prescription diet, and losing weight too fast can be harmful, so it is safer to set the goal and pace with a vet. This guide is general information; follow the product label and your vet's advice for individual portions.
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